Ever since I was a little girl, Lion King has always been one of my favourite films. We had it on a much loved VHS tape and my sister and I watched it repeatedly throughout our childhood.
To do an African Safari is an absolute dream come true – a bucket list moment that I will treasure forever (no exaggeration!).
Amy and I (my loyal travel companion) flew into Nairobi airport after an early wake up call. We were kitted out in our khaki clothing and our backpacks, excited for our next adventure.
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We were recommended HTT tour company by our friends, Alice and Jon, who had ventured here in the summer. The communication had been outstanding with Najma being our point of contact throughout the planning of our trip. At arrivals, we were met by Kassim, the tour representative, and our driver James. James is with us throughout our stay and it is clear how much experience he has of Nairobi.
Our first stop was Lake Naivasha and it meant a 3 hour trip in our mini bus. Immediately, we were overwhelmed by the slums close to the airport, with James saying that it was in fact one of the largest in Africa. As we always find on our trips, it is truly humbling to see how others live but also how much the Kenyans embrace life.
About an hour into our journey, James highlighted an impressive valley which spans from the Red Sea all the way to Mozambique. It was breathtakingly beautiful!
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We arrived at our accommodation for the first night: Lake Naivasha Country Club. It was everything we could have wanted and more! Upon arrival, Oliver on the front of desk, ensured that we had hibiscus flower juice and a refreshing flannel before we said goodbye to James for a few hours and ventured to our home for the night.
Our lodge was simple, clean and pleasant but it was the views which wowed us.
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It overlooked the wonderful grounds where the wildlife was in its element. We saw monkeys, literally monkeying around, zebras and deer in the distance and we could see it all from our lodge.
We went for lunch at the club’s restaurant, which was all included in our package. It was a buffet style so we were able to experience some of their speciality foods.
At 3pm, James took us for a boat trip to Lake Naivasha and we didn’t really know what to expect. It cost us 8000 Kenyan shilling which worked out at approx £28PP.
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Amy and I have had some interesting boat rides together and this had the potential to be another one! We saw many animals on this trip: Corman birds, African fish eagle, pelicans, water buck, wilderbeast, zebras to name just a few. However, the best moment was seeing the hippopotamuses in the wild, in their natural habitat. Our guide told us how they congregate in schools of hippopotamuses so as soon as we saw one, we saw between 10-12. They are one of the most aggressive animals in Africa but luckily, they are herbivores. After watching them for a while, we explored some more of the lake yet we were becoming slightly concerned about the moody skies and the choppier waters. You could see in the distance the rain was coming and the rumble of thunder appeared imminent but luckily it didn’t really affect us in the end.
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We observed fishermen in the water catching their prey and we were also fortunate enough to witness the African fish eagle in action too. Our guide let out a whistle and then threw a fish into the water to allow us to see the eagle sweep in to catch its prey.
We arrived back to Lake Naivasha Country Club and we decided to explore the grounds. We were a few metres away from a zebra! It was surreal! We weren’t sure how far we could go as we didn’t want to disturb the animals or stress them out. Then we met Mungai. Mungai was the loveliest man, who worked at the club, and he happily showed us around. What we didn’t know then was the hippopotamuses come onto land at night (hence why after 7pm, we had to call for security to escort us to dinner!). Mungai told us that he’d seen a hippopotamus in the bushes earlier and we went to find him. It was incredible! He told us how although they weigh 400kg, they move quickly so we had to take care. Top tip: if a hippo starts to chase you, make sure you run in a zig zag style!
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Dinner was included in our package too so we ate and returned back to our room as we were exhausted! Apparently we could have seen more hippos at night but we knew we had to get a good night’s sleep for our next day here in Kenya. James told us we needed to be on the road at 7am for the 5 hour trek to Masai Mara.
I absolutely loved our stay at Lake Naivasha Country Club, seeing the wild at our doorstep and the service was exemplary. It was sad to go but exciting to see where our next stop would take us!
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The trek to Masai Mara was long and very bumpy. Let’s just say that I won’t be complaining about the UK’s pothole situation for a while!
We stopped off on the way to a gift shop; an ideal opportunity to get some gifts and souvenirs. We had asked James what the deal was with haggling as we wanted to get a bargain but equally, we did not want to offend! Our sales guy, firstly quoted us 15,000 shillings (£100 approx) so I went in with an offer of 8000. He took it straight away but asked us to pay his boss 6000 and him, 2000 in his pocket. It seemed dodgy but we went with it…the man was risking his job but that money to him, would have meant so much more than his pitiful wage.
As we got closer to Masai Mara, the roads worsened. We had been told to expect it but it was awful! At one point, the roads were blocked and a man charged us to use his road (which he had cheekily cornered off with a tree trunk!).
As we had made quite good time in the end, James took us to see the Masai Mara tribe. It was quite an experience as we had no idea of what to expect! It cost $40PP and the money went to support their children’s school.
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They greeted us with their traditional dance before getting us involved in their high jump dancing. It was intense but extraordinary!
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Dixon, the man showing us around, then proceeded to show us how to make a fire; about their herbal remedies and then he took us into his house. When I say house, it was little bigger than a shed but it had 4 rooms: the kitchen, 2 bedroom and a guest room. We sat in the kitchen and could barely see as he said the light was limited due to mosquitos. His son, who was 5, loved taking selfies with us but it was quite shocking to see his dirty clothes and how little he had.
Although saying that, it was all they were used to and they seemed quite content. I was almost sold off to the tribe as a wife…if only I’d had 10 cows to sell to them! They would only mix with other tribes if exchanging a brother for a sister for marriage. We did get slightly conned at the end when they pretty much insisted we bought necklaces…we didn’t dare argue! An amazing experience to see their culture and although pricey, it was well worth it!
We were welcomed by the staff at Sopa Lodge and settled into our room. It was large with two double beds and they were eco friendly. By this, I mean there was only electricity during certain time periods every day and limited WiFi.
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Our first drive was amazing! We saw so many different animals such as giraffes, zebras, wildebeests, an elephant and so much more. My favourite moment was seeing some lions with their cubs walk out across our path. We were fortunate enough to see a leopard run down from a tree too!
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Following on from this, we returned to the lodge for a buffet style dinner. As we arrived back, we were able to witness a stunning sunset with the zebras improving the backdrop.
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Our final day at Masai Mara began at 8am after some more delightful food for breakfast. We chose the option of doing a full day drive as James said it would enable us to get deeper into the bush.
Our day began with us seeing more animals: cheetahs (as a pair which is apparently rare), hyenas, more hippos, a male lion with some female ones too. However the highlight for me was seeing the elephants. We saw up to 15 at a time with their baby calves with them. We were able to get quite close to them too which made the experience even better!
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After a long and exhausting day, we refreshed at the lodge before heading down to dinner. We enjoyed a bottle of red wine called Four Cousins and it was Amy’s first time enjoying red wine! It was very sweet and almost tasted like rose. But it allowed us to enjoy a fun filled, final evening, along with a show from the local tribe.
It feels too soon to be leaving but it has been a once in a lifetime trip and we hope to come back to Kenya again soon! The people were incredibly kind considering how little they have and although poverty is extreme, it was fascinating to see how they build in strategies to cope with the lifestyle they are used to.
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Asante Sana, Kenya!